Spice is right but it may not be obvious from what he wrote that you use a 'rod' of metal down the centre of the bearing 'hole'. So, for example, you put the steel rod down through the TOP bearing and rest it on the lip of the BOTTOM bearing..... now you can tap it out.
The point about the spacer is that, on many karts , the distance between thye top and bottom bearings is 'maintained' by a spaces (short steel tube) that just fits arouhnd the king pin bolt between the two bearings. Whgen you do the bolt 'up' the bearings can move until the spacer stops any further movement. The problem is that the spacer may be preventing you from' seeing' the lip of the lower bearing. Try to 'push' it to one side (it's only loosely fitted) and that will let ou get the steel rod onto the bearing.
Don't worry if you damage the old bearings getting the out.... you are throwing them away, anyway!
Finally, it can be hard to hold the stub axle tight enough in a sift-jawed vice. In that case, you simply need top support the main 'tube' of the stub axle while you hit the bearing, with som ething that ownt stop the bearing from coming out. One way is to open the vice JUST wide enough so that the out 'lip' of the stub-axle-tube is supported by the vice. That'll let you knock the bearings out. Another choice it to support the stubaxle tube on a socket of the diameter that will 'hold' the stub axle but will let your new bearing fall into it.
When you remove the first bearing, make CERTAIN you don't lose the spacer 'tube' (if it has one) and, in that case, don't forget to put it BACK when you fit the new bearings.
Ian
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