That's the point, though, Sam.... He (and you) need to see and accept that each chassis he uses throughout his career will be different..... there's no point in changing chassis if it's the SAME as the last one....!
The skill is in transferring what you knew about the old chassis to the new one.
Each chassis is different. If you drove two 'identical' chassis, you'd be able to feel differences. Most of that will be in minor setup differences
Get control of your setup and you'll make ANY (well.... most) chassis work for you. It's NOT magic, it's hardly science..... it's an ART!
If you don't already know how a small change in seat position (forward or backward... and even Up or DOWN) will make a HUGE difference, then you have a LONG way to go.... it's that bit that's FUN.
As a word of advice on 'changes': for a start, concentrate on the major things like:-
* weight distribution * track width * camber (if allowed) * Caster (if allowed) * Ride height * TYRE PRESSURES
..... and only then consider the more esoteric ones like:-
* akerman angle * wheel offset * seat stays * axle stiffness * etc.
The first ones will make HUGE changes in performance; the latter will make MINOR changes.... if at all.
Oh yes, and the performance of the brakes will depend on the length of the 'levers' on the pedal/hydraulic lever. Raising the 'pull point' up the pedal/lever will make the pedal harder to push but it will react to pedal more jerkily and more rapidly. Moving it DOWN the levers will make the pedal pressure LESS but the pedal will move further and allow the driver more subtle control (called 'modulation'). You set the 'height' of those levers depending on what your driver wants.
Ian
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