I would agree with whats been said above.
The upper & lower engine clamps are similar in cross section & profile, however the lower ones have a counterbore to recess the M8 hex socket head screws that are used to clamp the upper & lower bars together. The top ones will have studs fitted to match up with the engine fixings.
I'm sure the lower ones could be DIY manufactured (I would ensure they have a profile to compliment the upper ones) but bear in mind that they will protrude below the chassis rails and as such could be caught by an unintentional ride over a curb!!!!!!!. I made small skid plates to affix both the lower engine mounts to help with this.
The 98 vintage Bowman that I have has 4 holes in chassis tube that holds the steering yolks. These are used to adjust the castor and/or track width.
As mentioned earlier, the rear axle runs in Pillow block bearings either gold or blue in colour and the Kelgate disc either centrally mounted or outside the RH bearing depending upon set-up.
I can give you a few more tips on mods that I have done to the front stubs (added grease nipples & ecentric Top hat washers to the king pins & properly shimmed up the king pin bearings) that were benificial when I used it for enduro racing.
I'm currently working on fitting a disc brake protector similar to all the current karts have fitted.
I have a number of home made tools to help with the rear axle bearing removal & fitting as well as the tightening of the tapered collars on the rear axle.
Hope this helps a bit more.
Jim
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