Kart brakes, generally, do not work like conventional hydraulic brakes. They do not have a reservoir to top up the system as pads wear down. Any fluid removed by 'bleeding' needs to be replaced manually. Pads need to be shimmed as they wear down. If you use a brake bleed bottle, it needs to have an adaptor to ensure it screws into the master cylinder correctly; it also has a reservoir to do the topping up and a manual valve to prevent pedal pressure forcing fluid into the bottle instead of down the pipes. If you open the bleed screw and depress the pedal with no reservoir, you run the risk of introducing air at the master cylinder end or, if you leave master cylinder cap in place, you lose the fluid forced out which will, a) suck the caliper pistons fully back into the caliper and b) reduce the effective pedal distance to operate the brake. Both a) & b) will reduce the piston travel at the caliper which usually = no brakes! Using the small funnel technique; the master cylinder plug thread will cut its own thread in the plastic which ensures a seal. Using gravity to let fluid run through and fill the system prevents the risk of air entering at the master cylinder and ensures caliper pistons remain as set by you before you start. Once bled through, there shouldn't be any need to this very often - damage or seal failure being the usual reasons. Brake bleed bottle �25; plastic funnel about 50p - -your choice.
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