It depends on what you did to adjust them.
Normally karts have track rods where the left (or right) end of each road has a normal thread but the OTHER end has a �left-hand thread�. If you loosen and adjust a rod by rotating the rod itself, it will extend (or contract) the rod which will adjust the �tracking� (toe-in/toe-out).
However, if your kart is older, someone may have swapped it/them for cheap rods which have BOTH ends with the same, standard thread. If you simply adjust those by loosening and rotating the rod then�. NOTHING HAPPENS�. except the rod falls out of one end��!
In either case, you need to find how to increase/decrease the length of both rods ROUGHLY equally. Ones with left and right threads are MUCH simpler to do. You simply loosen BOTH ends from thir lock-nuts ands rotate them in/out as required. If you don�t have those, you need to undo BOTH rods from the �stub axle control arm� (drag link) and extend or contract them and then re-attach both and re-measure. Do NOT try to re-measure with laser or tape until you have re-tighten the rods to the stubs.
Two more clues! You�ll know the left-hand thread because it�ll look ODD. Strictly, if you have �quality-kit�, the nuts on the left hand thread and the track rod end will be MARKED to say that it IS left hand thread. That�s done by a �groove� passing through the �nut faces� all around the �nut�. If yours does NOT have such a �groove�, it�s either a cheap and grotty track rod end/nut or it�s NOT a left hand thread on THAT end!
Finally, after you�ve done it all up, make absolutely CERTAIN that the rod has free-play to rotate at BOTH ends of the full lock (I do NOT mean leave the nuts undone!!!!!). If not, you�ll damage the rods, drag links, bolts etc. as the movement will be �strangled�. It�s done by adjusting the �locking nuts� and track rod ends to �compliment� the other end.
Finally�. finally�. You should be looking in the range of ROUGHLY 1 to 2 mm of toe-OUT (check the manual) when the kart is on the stand�. Why�? Because, when you sit in the kart, it BENDS and that (usually) forces the kart to toe-in by ROUGHLY 1 to 2mms, thus setting the kart to a REAL 0mm.
Ian
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