I had a similar problem a while back. I tried all the suggestions as above - no luck.
If you are just testing/practicing at the moment and don't need the engine sealed, try the following:
Break the seals and strip the head / barrel. Check the piston for scoring and the rings for 'coking up' - if in doubt, replace the piston (with a new correct sized one - the size should be marked on the head) and replace the piston rings.
Before refitting the head, clean out the bottom end / crankcase with clean fuel or brake cleaner. When I did ours, the bottom was coated with 2 stroke oil - the fuel had evaporated as the engine had been standing for a while. Clean out the ports and all the channels in the head / barrel.
Lubricate the big end and crank bearings with a little light engine oil and check that all spins freely before replacing the head. When you do put the head back on, use a bit of WD40 on the barrel liner and line up the gaps in the rings with the 'notches' in the piston. It also helps to soak the new head gasket in WD40 before replacement and use a new rubber 'O' ring to seal between the head and the barrel.
When starting up, use a new plug and choke the carb inlet with your hand until fuel comes out of the air inlet side of the carb before switching the kill switch to 'on'. Set the jets at 60min high and low to get you going, with some tension on the throttle cable to open up the throttle butterfly.
This seemed to work for me. I can only assume that whilst sitting for a while, any remaining fuel in the crank case had evaporated, leaving the oil, resulting in a very oily 'mix' which kept on coating the plug and stopping it from firing.
For the cost of the new bits, it is worth having a go yourself as it would cost the same in postage alone to get your engine looked at.
This does all depend on the carb (what a 'beautiful' piece of engineering that is !!) working to some extent.
There is a downloadable guide available from http://www.comer-topkart.it/images/maintenance.pdf which is quite useful.
Good luck !!
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