Cylinder pressure forces the ring out against the cylinder wall. You have to consider the ring as being in contact with metal on its lower face and on it's cylinder contact face (actually a thin film of oil, but close enough). The other two (inner and upper) faces get to see compression and combustion pressure, which pushes the ring downwards and outwards.
If insufficient throttle opening is used during running-in, the oil on the cross-hatching gets burnt on by the blow-by gases before the ring has a chance to bed in. This is what's meany by bore glazing.
I think either of our methods would work fine, but find my engine more than oily enough without choking it as well. I certainly didn't mean to criticise what you had suggested, as I am sure it works well. I can see why you wouldn't want to run-in like that for too long, as the "slow engine" thing would probably be caused by the ring groove getting a bit gummy.
Liam
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