Depending on the chassis, they are easy, if fiddly, to replace.
Ideally, measure the gap between the top of the bracket welded to the cahssis which holds the stub axle between it. They often have a gep of EXACTLY 50mm.
Find a bolt of the same diameter as the main bolt which runs through the chassis and stub axle (called the King Pin Bolt) and acts as the 'hinge'. Cut that extra bolt into a length of EXACTLY the gap on the chassis (i.e., ofetn 50mm) making sure that it is NO head on it (i.e., just a cylinder of 50mm length but the same diameter as the king pin bolt).
Then, when youy dismantle the stub axle, make a note of what goes where and which way a round.
Now, with the new stub axle ready, re-assemble the stub axle BUT around that new (50mm) 'dummy' king pin bolt but do that in youre hand NOT on the chassis.
Now insert the whole assembly bakc INTO the chassis which the 'dummy' still in place. Now insert the REAL kingpin through the correct holes and it will shove the 'dummy' OUT. The real king pin will follow the dummy back through all the washers, bearings, tubes etc.
You can rebuild them without the 'dummy' but it makes it a LOT less fiddly!
The dummy doesn't need to be steel, it can even be a piece of wood dowling of the right diameter and length. However, if you stay a while in karting, you'll do this job SO many times that you will wear the dowling out. You won't manage to wear out a steel dummy.....
Ian
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