Trev,
Don't waist money on eastern block products...
15 - 16 deg castor in the dry at warden will be about 0.75 of a second away...
The only people that have been making it work have been running up at the 18 mark. The problem with the Mk III, is it too soft in the waist... Therefore it's hard work. But it can be fast!
Issue you'll always have, apex to exit understeer, because it will put its inside wheel back down. Most have been attempting to overcome the issue by dropping the castor and the overall grip, but thats not the right thing to do. As it does hurt overall lap time, you loose entry stability for no real gain else where.
The kart still releases well, but for the understeer. Just drive accordingly, drive it like a car, smooth, no sidways action, manage the apex speed. Go in to hot and it will hurt you, I doubt it is as forgiving as Mk II. It will tie itself in knots if you overload it. (thats the important bit)
18 deg castor 20mm front, many end up at 15mm 152mm rear 130 / 200 rims (maybe 180's) 20 / 22 Psi Bar out 20/69 gearing
My one which is like a Mk 1,000,000... Ratio front to waist to rear torsional stiffness is quite different.
Mk III is like Stiff to Soft to Med/Soft Mk 1,000,000 is like Soft/Med to Med to Med/Soft
I'd run 18 - 19 deg castor 25mm front 157mm rear 130 / 200 rims between 18 and 22 Psi Rear bar in Front bar out 20/68 gearing
Consistant clear air, mid 58's on a good day!
That gives you a setup range to work in, The kart will be quick in the wet due to it relational stiffness issues. You may find a wet and dry set up are the same as more castor may just make it undriveable.
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